Saturday, November 18, 2006
Mulege 11/17
The days of the week and month come and go and we're not really sure what day it is. But today we explored the area a little in the dinghy, then hitched a ride to the nearest town: Mulege. 14 miles.
We had a taco lunch and explored the town's narrow streets and simple shops, stopping in a mercado for a few fresh veggies and bread. Mulege is an old town with narrow random streets and ancient one-story buildings. It is on the only (somewhat) navigable river in the Baja. Its exposed position permitted Hurricane John this year to wreak much damage. 27 inches of rain fell in a day. But the town is quickly recovering. Date palms profuse in the river bottom which is renowned for its voracious mosquitos. Steve always attracts the critters but had not a single bite while we were here. We sat in the town square and just enjoyed the simpleness of the town.
At the bus estacion we were told we'd have to ask the driver if he would let us off at Bahia Concepcion where the boat is. While we waited for the bus we had an ice cream and enjoyed the mosquito-less date palm forest. When the bus arrived the driver easily obliged our special stop. Steve preferred the bus to return instead of the US$20/person cab fare. The bus was air conditioned, driven by a professional, had lounge seats, and showed an American movie. For this we paid US2.50 each.
Back at the bay, we stopped in at Doug and Rita's for Rita to show us where to find clams. What do you know? The clams here just lay on the surface of the sand in waist-deep water. You can see them with goggles, just laying there. Cap'n is enjoying them now. He says the butter clams are tender but bland. The native Chocolates are tougher but more flavorful. He then mused about something to the effect of the similarity to white girls and others, but I didn't pay attention. He was on his third beer.